Deco Cowl Sleeve Top
Tips For Sculpting The Cowl Sleeve
And other notes…..
Below are just some of my thoughts and tips that I encountered when sampling this pattern. Over time I may add to this page. You will need some sort of dress from to hand the top on while you sculpt the cowl.
Sizing: this top is very roomy and the bias expands quite a bit so if you are busty or curvy don’t feel discouraged by the sizing. If you need to adjust the measurements of the pattern to suit yours it is very easy to do.
When starting your first toile, the facing piece can be cut as a all in one piece bateau (posting this process soon). Remember the front and back are the same therefore the front will need to be folded down more than the back - I clipped and folded the front down an extra 1.25” on the first muslin.
Start by stitching up the side seams and then across the shoulder and sleeve. Leave about 12” for the head - adjust as necessary. Be sure to press open the top sleeve seams, this will become apparent when you define the cowl drape. This seam must be perfectly pressed open.
To create the cowl the pattern does not have notches but relies on you and your fabric to dictate where and when. Before beginning I suggest relaxing into the process, if you enjoy draping this will be fun, take a moment to play around with the fabric - seeing where it wants to fall. My first crease (from the bottom) began at 11” from the raw edge of the wrist opening.
Once you have an idea of how to move forward first pin each fold, then run a basting thread through the cowl to hold in place. Then (if you have a hand steamer) I recommend hand steaming to set. Flip to the inside and use rayon hem tape to secure each fold. See images below:
