MV BIAS PULLOVER PAGE
(This is a place where I post tutorials and notes on constructing the MV Bias Pullover. New items may be added over time so please check back!)
This pattern has all the fundamental elements of Vionnet’s approach to pattern cutting - a simple interesting cut, ease of wear, and the look is driven by the choice of fabric - not the construction. A single pattern piece with only side seams and no shoulder seams. It has no closures and softly drapes over the body to sit on the hips - all the characteristics that guided Vionnet’s work.
Yardage
Allow approximately 1.5 yards of 45” fabric. If you are working with wider fabric this will allow you some room to play with extending the sleeve or entire length of top. This is a low waste pattern so please use the extra fabric scraps to make bias binding for the edges or other details if you choose. For the toile (sample) choose a fabric which will drape such as a rayon challis or other soft fabric, muslin is too crisp.
Sizing and Fit
Pattern includes the sizes - small, medium, and large. The bottom of the top sits around the lower waistline. Theoretically this pattern will fit any size.
For larger sizes wider fabric and possibly more yardage is recommended. You may need to incorporate piecing.
Suggested Fabric:
Silk crepe de chine works really well, marquisette, soft silks, cotton voile, rayons, batiste, chenille, pongee, or experiment with your choice - soft or sculptural. Also, great for large bold prints and textural weaves, something special and especially beautiful. This pattern is all about the fabric!
Sizing Up
As with many Center for Pattern Design patterns, the cut/fit can be more effectively enlarged or changed via draping the toile directly on the model (or yourself). The MV Bias Pullover however is relatively straightforward so even beginners can experiment with sizing up with the slash and spread method. See images below for a conceptual. Essentially compare your measurements with those of the final garment, decide how you want extend or expand and experiment away!
